This app is a simple tool that allows you to view your current WiFi connection signal strength. Its useful in finding good areas of WiFi connectivity in your WiFi network. Easy to find the best WiFi signal Strength The app is constantly updating the signal strength so you can walk around your house, work, or anywhere your connected to WiFi to find the best connection. If you want the app. Most Wi-Fi locators use a set of between four and six LEDs to indicate signal strength in units of bars similar to the Windows utility. Unlike the above methods, however, Wi-Fi locator devices do not measure the strength of a connection but instead, only predict the strength of a connection. WiFi Signal is a system menu bar application that provides easy access to your Wi-Fi connection details (name, channel, transmit rate, signal strength, noise, etc.), monitors the signal quality of your wireless network, and can find and recommend alternative channels for your network thus avoiding signal overlapping and channel conflicts that.
Create a cantenna to drastically extend your Wi-Fi signal! Works great with a router that has external antennas, like the old-school classic WRT54G.
The aluminum can acts as a medium for the radio waves to be guided through, hence the term waveguide cantenna. Radio waves will be “guided” into the can and interact with the wire element, which sends a signal down the pigtail cable and then to your computer or router.
Each radio frequency has a different wavelength. The wavelength of a signal is the velocity of the wave divided by the frequency. If you can, imagine you can create waves in a small pool. The velocity is the rate at which the wave changes position. The frequency is how many waves you can make in x amount of time. The wavelength will be the distance between each wave you produce.
Now imagine you want to catch some of those waves in an aluminum can. If you make really large waves in the water but have a really small can, you won’t catch many or they will just break up. If you can perfectly match the size of your waves to fit inside the can, you will get capture the most water, or in our case, a wireless signal. The only difference is that radio waves are invisible. In order to find out the right size of the can, we need to do some math.
There are a few basic guidelines to follow when making a cantenna. This will also help conceptualize what to do when making it or if you are modifying the can for a different frequency.
There is an online calculator, which will help you determine the dimensions of your cantenna.
First, it is important to know that radio waves travel at the speed of light, which is about 300 Mega meters (Mm) per second (the exact speed is 299,792,458 meters/sec). For the purposes of an easy-to-remember formula, I rounded up and converted meters to Mega meters.
Wavelength (mm) ≈ Velocity of wave (Mm/sec) / Frequency (GHz)
w = v / f Mac blu ray player 3 3 19.
We know v will be 300 (rounded up based on the speed of light mentioned above). For f, we need to plug in the Wi-Fi frequency. You could just use 2.4, but in order to be a little more accurate, we will use two more decimal places. For channel 6 in the 2.4GHz spectrum, we need to plug in 2.437. Solving for w yields ~123mm.
w = 300 Mm / 2.437 GHz
w = 123.102175
Now that we know the wavelength for our radio frequency, we can begin calculating the dimensions of the can based on the guidelines mentioned previously. Textsoap 8 3 2.
If you are confused about using 2.437 instead of just 2.4, take a look at the chart below to see how each channel has its own frequency. Or if you are feeling very bold, examine the Radio Frequency Allocation chart, which gives a very broad but complex overview of all the available radio frequencies. Basically, just know that the 2.4GHz spectrum isn’t just 2.4GHz, it is actually 2.401 to 2.483. While this may not seem like much, if you have ever changed your wireless routers channel to get a better signal, you know that it does make a difference.
2.4GHz is a common frequency for Wi-Fi and its wavelength makes the canntenna an ideal size–not too big, but not too small. Once you start working with other frequencies, the cantenna might become ridiculously large or impossibly small. But simply using the formula above, you could theoretically make a waveguide antenna for any frequency.
The size of the can will make a difference on the quality of the signal. I will be using numbers from the How the Cantenna Works section above to calculate the dimensions.
If you were able to find the same can that I used (a 1qt Enfamil baby formula can), then you can simply follow the instructions below. If you have a different sized can, you will need to calculate the dimensions based on instructions above in the How the Cantenna Works section. You should still be able to follow along, but any specific dimension steps will need to be modified to suit your can.
1. Measure ~63.5cm or ~2.5in from the back of the can (this will be different if you are not using the same can that I did)
2. Mark this location with a Sharpie marker Note: This will be the location of the copper wire element
3. Drill or cut a hole into the can making sure that the center of the circle lines up with the measurement above.
4. Drill four screw holes into the can using the N-connector as a guide for their location
Note: This part is tricky because it needs be 31 mm from the point it exits out of the N-connector. In order to solder it into the connector, it needs to be a bit longer. I suggest cutting a larger piece, fitting it into the connector, and then trimming it down after it is installed.
Once you have the copper element cut to size, it needs to be soldered into the connector. If you have never soldered before, learn how, and then cut a few pieces to practice with before working on the actual connector.
Caution: Be careful not to melt the plastic contained in the N-connector. It melts easy, so I would suggest using a soldering iron that has lower heat and a fine-tip.
Once the N-connector is complete, you are ready to mount it to the can using the four screws.
1. Screw the N-connector to the can
Your cantenna is almost done; just connect the pigtail cable from the cantenna into a wireless router or wireless USB dongle. The router or dongle needs to have a removable antenna. The picture below shows the classic WRT54G being used. The great thing about this router is that you can add DD-WRT firmware, which will give you the ability to choose which antenna is transmit and which is receive. It will also allow you to adjust the power so you can increase the range even more.
1. Screw one end of the pigtail into the cantenna’s N-connector
2. Screw the other end into a compatible router or USB dongle
Why should I choose a 3×3 Access Point over a 2×2 Access Point?
Islanders 2019 playoff hat. In October, Pakedge announced the release of its WX line of 3 x3 802.11 ac wireless access points (AP) designed for high-end residential and commercial applications. At the CEDIA Expo in mid October, we previewed the WK-2, a 3×3 version of our popular 802.11ac WK-1 AP. The WK-2 will be released early December.
What does 3×3 mean?
It is common to see AP product descriptions with 2×2 or 3×3. The first number is the number of transmit antennas while the second number refers to the number of receive antennas. For example, our WX-1 AP is 3×3, which means that it has 3 transmit antennas and 3 receive antennas.
Sometimes you will see a third number at the end preceded by a colon (e.g. 3×3:3). The last number refers to the number of spatial streams – the number of independent wireless data transmissions that are sent over the antennas on the same channel. These spatial streams are fundamental to MIMO (multiple input, multiple output) antenna technology which takes multiple copies of the same data signal and transmits them through physically distinct paths to a receiver which recombines the signal from the various streams. In the example of our WX-1, which is a 3×3:3 WAP, it is capable of transmitting and receiving 3 simultaneous streams of information on a single channel.
In both cases, the numbers should not be confused with the number of radios inside the WAP. There are two radios – one for the 2.4 GHz transmissions, and one for the 5 GHz transmissions.
How does a 3×3 AP provide more performance than a 2×2 AP?
All things equal, you can expect more performance from a 3×3 AP than a 2×2 for several reasons. First, for a 802.11ac AP, a 3×3 AP provides a maximum throughput is 1.3 Gbps (3 x 433 Mbps) versus 867 Mbps (2 x 433 Mbps) for a 2 x 2. Note that the maximum speeds are used for reference purposes. In real life applications, the actual throughputs observed are significantly less due to attenuation, and other factors.
Second, the increase in the number of antennas help improve signal link quality and reliability through a technique called spatial diversity. Because the antennas are physically separated from each other, each antenna sees a slightly different copy of the signal. The signal seen by one antenna may be slightly imperfect in one area of the transmission while the other antenna may see it perfectly. This is especially significant in environments where the RF environment is less than ideal due to site geometry, building materials, and interference.
Boom2:volume boost & equalizer 1 6 6. Our resellers have said that they’ve seen performance gains of anywhere from 10 to 30% in the field.
How would a 3×3 make a performance difference if the client device is a 1×1?
The performance benefits are clear when you have a 3×3 AP paired with a 3×3 client device like an Apple MacBook Pro, but what about a 1×1:1 device like the Apple iPhone? In this case, there are no MIMO gains from the additional spatial streams. However, there are still performance improvements to be had with a 3×3 AP versus a 2×2 AP.
The first improvement occurs on the AP side through a technique called Space Time Block Coding. Since the 3 x 3 AP knows that it is only transmitting to a 1×1 client, it uses the leftover antenna chains to break up and transmit blocks of data to ensure that the client device can reconstruct the original signal even if parts of some streams get lost during transmission.
The second improvement occurs at the AP end. Even though a 1×1 client can only send 1 stream, that single stream bounces off walls, furniture, and other objects to arrive at the AP’s three receiving antennas as separate signals. The AP uses the same signal recombination algorithm (discussed earlier – called MRC) to take the signal received on each antenna chain and piece together the original data signal by combining the strongest segments from each chain.
Based on our testing with the 3×3:3 WX-1 paired to a 1×1:1 device in a real world environment, we observed a 14 to 34% throughput improvement when these features were enabled.
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